Polyester. The most widely used fibre today, constituting over half of the textile market, this versatile fibre is a component of a vast amount of textile products, from clothing through to rugs and curtains.
The use of polyester within the luxury market is significantly increasing, with brands such as Prada adopting better infrastructure to recycle synthetic fibres like polyester and nylon. Benefits of polyester include enhanced durability and versatility, the capacity to hold more intricate draping, and resistance to creasing. However, luxury fashion houses, as well as sprawling fast-fashion retailers, such as the likes of Shein and Forever21, both utilise polyester for garment production. This begs the question; what are the differences in the qualities of this group of materials?Â
Let’s first look at the different types of polyester:
According to the material manufacturing company Apex Mills, we have PET, or Polyethylene Terephthalate; the most common type of polyester due to its affordability.
Less used, PCDT is similar to PET; its chemical difference is better suited to upholstery.
We also have plant-based polyester, supposedly biodegradable (although biodegrading into what, we do not yet know), made of natural substances such as sugar-cane and ‘bio-waste’. As this fibre is in its early stages, it has higher production costs, is non-recyclable, and is rarely used.
According to the University of Cambridge, PET is the predominant variety of polyester used in clothing. Its quality is dependent on various factors, including;Â
the raw material purity
chemical structure and polymerisation (i.e. the process by which individual molecules are joined together)
fibre formation and processing (such as drawing and orientation)
blending with other fibresÂ
fibre finishing treatments
texturising
quality control and consistency
recycling conditions (if PET is recycled).Â
Additionally, there are two variables associated with chemical structure and polymerisation, and those are molecular weight and crystallinity. The molecular weight of a single unit of a polyester is essentially how heavy it is, based on the atoms it is made of. The crystallinity of a polymer refers to how these individual units are arranged to form larger structures. This can affect the rigidity and density of the polymer, and is controlled by the way the material is heated and cooled. Therefore, a higher molecular weight creates stronger and more durable fibres - this weight is increased through a ‘polycondensation process’, involving many chemicals such as different acyl halides, carbon suboxide, formaldehyde, etc. It can be noted that these chemicals are toxic in their own right, harmful for the environment and potential carcinogens.
With regards to fibre formation and processing, there are a few aspects which modify the quality of the material outcome. These consist of spinning techniques, drawing and orientation, and texturising. ‘Melt spinning’ is a method of forming thread from plastic pellets, which is commonly used for PET polymers, but other forms of spinning include dry, wet, gel, direct, solution, continuous and electro-spinning. Fibre finishing tends to impact the final product depending on their use, such as water and stain resistance, and relies on chemical treatment. So like cotton, more sophisticated infrastructure and finessed technical procedures can have a substantial impact on the quality of the material outcome.  Â
Is Polyester a Luxury Material?
Despite its boasting versatility and durability, the question remains as to what defines a luxury material. At NEÖSPHERA, we believe that luxury equates to well-being, and the ultimate well-being is the ultimate luxury. Thus, recent scientific observations, which just two years ago began to expose the effects of microplastics on the human body, show us how deeply counterintuitive polyester is to luxury and well-being. In a study conducted by a group of medical and biological professionals from the University of Hull, it was found that ‘microplastic fibres were identified in all regions of the human lungs’; specifically those most widely used in textile production. In the same way, we observe cotton and other dust particles in the air when the light hits them at a certain angle, polyester dust particles are inevitably and invisibly being inhaled.
As well as virgin polyester, some luxury brands are offering recycled polyester as a more sustainable alternative. As highlighted by the sustainable fashion company TwoThirds, while implementing recycled polyester practices is progressive, recycled polyester can also compromise material quality, and in particular, be more prone to microplastic shedding.
Other aspects to consider around synthetic materials such as polyester include their lack of breathability and potential toxicity and irritation to skin. According to bioengineering and skin technology researchers from Charité–Universitätsmedizin Berlin,
Skin diseases can develop in a disadvantageous microclimate in relation to skin contact with textiles or supporting devices. Increased temperature, moisture, mechanical fracture, pressure, and inflammatory processes often occur mutually and enhance each other in their adverse effects.
Therefore, skin exposed to various uncomfortable conditions while in contact with certain synthetic textiles can lead to skin diseases. These conditions, such as heat, sweat and pressure, often combine and make skin issues more severe. With polyester being non-breathable and highly chemical, these unfavourable conditions can be most highly fostered.
Considering our research at NEÖSPHERA we feel that while polyester can be well suited to especially functional and specialised clothing, we would avoid it in all other luxury fashion related circumstances, due to its compromise on our right to health and ultimate well-being.
Bibliography
Apex Mills 2022, 'What is Polyester?', Apex Mills. Available at: https://www.apexmills.com/media_post/what-is-polyester/ (Accessed: 29 May 2024).
Ceramics, P., (2023). Polycondensation. ScienceDirect. Available at: https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/materials-science/polycondensationÂ
[Accessed: 29 May 2024].
DoITPoMS 2024, 'Crystallinity', DoITPoMS, University of Cambridge. Available at: https://www.doitpoms.ac.uk/tlplib/polymerbasics/crystallinity.php (Accessed: 29 May 2024).
Influence of polyester spacer fabric, cotton, chloroprene rubber, and silicone on microclimatic and morphologic physiologic skin parameters in vivo. Available at: https://app.litmaps.com/preview/83816466?i=type%3Aarticle%2Cid%3A83816466%2Ctab%3Adetails [Accessed: 29 May 2024].
Jung, S., Schleusener, J., and Knorr, F et al, (2019). Influence of polyester spacer fabric, cotton, chloroprene rubber, and silicone on microclimatic and morphologic physiologic skin parameters in vivo. Cited in: Skin research and technology: official journal of International Society for Bioengineering and the Skin (ISBS) [and] International Society for Digital Imaging of Skin (ISDIS) [and] International Society for Skin Imaging
Available at: https://app.litmaps.com/preview/83816466?i=type%3Aarticle%2Cid%3A83816466%2Ctab%3Adetails 10.1111/SRT.12666 [Accessed: 29 May 2024]. Lauren C. Jenner a, Jeanette M. Rotchell b, Robert T. Bennett et al (2022). Detection of microplastics in human lung tissue using μFTIR spectroscopy. Available at: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0048969722020009
[Accessed: 29 May 2024].
Minnesota Department of Health. (n.d.). Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) in Your Home. Available at: https://www.health.state.mn.us/communities/environment/air/toxins/voc.htm
[Accessed: 19th June 2024]
Pell, S., 2024. Are Next-Gen Synthetic Fibres the Future of Sustainable Textiles? Modern Farmer. Available at https://modernfarmer.com/2024/03/next-gen-synthetic-fibers [accessed 29 May 2024]
ResearchGate. (n.d.). Scanning electron microscope images of particle-covered polyester fabric. Available at:
[Accessed: 19th June 2024]
Textile Exchange (2023). Materials Market Report 2023. Textile Exchange. Available at: https://textileexchange.org/knowledge-center/reports/materials-market-report-2023/Â [Accessed: 29 May 2024]
This Is Plastics (2023), High fashion brands are creating luxury with recycled plastic. Available at: https://thisisplastics.com/innovation/high-fashion-brands-are-creating-luxury-with-recycled-plastic/ [Accessed: 29 May 2024].
TwoThirds, (2024). Pros and Cons of Recycled Polyester. Available at: https://twothirds.com/en-gb/blogs/journal/pros-and-cons-of-recycled-polyester#:~:text=Unfortunately%2C%20mechanical%20recycling%20reduces%20the,as%20amazing%20as%20it%20sounds [Accessed: 29 May 2024].
Comments